Angeline Manthi

I am just so amazed about one of my friends here, that I wanted to write about the amazing things she is doing!
I mentioned Angeline before as the young woman whose family sold all their cows in order to educate her.
She is about the same age as me, and trained as a dressmaker. Angeline works for the Sisters at Don Bosco Mission in the production area, and has recently opened her own shop.
Late last year, her family's home area was struck very hard by floods, so her parents had to leave their home and go to temporary housing for awhile. After their return, instead of just sending them money, Angeline taught her parents (subsistence farmers) how to sell their extra produce to earn some income.
In order to open "fashion store" as they are called here (provides tailoring, stitching, clothes, accessories and toiletries) she took out a large micro-loan of 80,000 shillings -- about $1,000 US, and has rented a store-front just off the main road passing Makuyu. She has hired her younger sister to run the store during the day while she is at work, and has really worked hard to have beautiful things. It has been great to notice the huge increase in the amount of customers in just the couple months she has had it open!
I am just amazed that at the same age as me she is already an entrepreneur who basically supports her entire family (she was also helping to pay school fees for her younger siblings) and has such a positive outlook on life and so much wisdom to know how to use money! Imagine being able to not just support your parents financially, but to teach them how to learn to support themselves! As the oldest in her family, she also is an inspiration to the younger siblings -- the sister who works in the shop now aspires to open her own shop someday and has started saving money to do so.
In addition to the hard work she does, Angeline has a wonderfully friendly and hospitable personality, and deeply rooted faith (she even attends morning Mass every day!). In my first weeks in Kenya she was kind enough to show me how to take the matatus (crazy method of public transportation) and around the Makuyu area. As they say here, she is my "very nice friend."

Links to a few photos

I haven't been able to put up a ton of pictures due to internet constraints, but in lieu of having them in my blog I have posted some on Facebook. The links are as follows (you shouldn't need an account to view them)
Enjoy!
Lauren

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2091499&id=32503907&l=594bf295af

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2089045&id=32503907&l=ff4cc63138

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2085714&id=32503907&l=07512bb1e2

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2081939&id=32503907&l=9d43ac21c7

Birthdays!

Birthdays here are not so widely celebrated as they are in the US. If someone asks you your age it is generally okay to ask them in return. There is definitely not the same obsession with looking young. In fact, because of the amount of sun and hard work people do, many of them look much older than their years -- especially young mothers and shoshos (grandmothers)and babus (grandfathers). Anyway, back to the topic at hand.
For children, it seems that they have their friends over for the day and the parents make a nice lunch. For adults, I think it is common that the person who's birthday it is brings a cake to work. Sadly, they don't eat frosting here.
My birthday was a few weeks ago (eek shows how behind I am on this blog) and it was very nice. In the morning, all the Sisters "greet you" and tell you they are praying for you. They have a special placemat they put out that says "happy birthday" and right away in the morning they sing. In the evening, they made for me my favorite dinner (thin pancakes with lentils), and did the aspirants and postulants did a cute skit about the day I was born "in the hospital of Mary." Then, they came in singing with a cake and candles even! They have so many birthday songs, and even the normal "Happy Birthday" is sung in so many languages, French, Kinyarwanden, Kiswahili etc. Then, the person whose birthday it is cuts the cake -- there is also a song for cutting the cake. It was so nice that they remembered and prepared for me so nicely. Definitely made it a special day.

Did Western Culture Ruin Africa?

Now that is a big topic! But, it's been something on my mind since I first came. I somehow had a view of Sub-Saharan Africa as an ideal world, except for huge issues with poverty and exploitation. Yes, there are the enormous problems of poverty and exploitation, but that is not the only thing that harms the people.
Tribalism is a major issue. Certain groups marry the outcasts of others, others are in longstanding feuds -- simply because of the tribe. One example is the conflict with the Masaai and some of their neighbors. In Masaai culture, it is believed that cattle were created for them, and for them only. Therefore, if someone else has a cow, it rightfully belongs to the Masaai so it is "okay" for them to steal it back. This obviously causes problems for the original owners of the cattle who then go to steal the cows back etc. The post-election violence in 2007 was fueled especially by tribal groups who believed their leaders should be in power. Today, the government is mainly controlled by Kikuyus, the largest ethnic group. The country is divided into tribal areas, and the people find it very foreign that I don't have a tribe because the U.S. is so mixed.
Distribution of wealth is another major issue. While in general the majority of the wealth belongs to outsiders, the Kenyans who are very rich for the most part do not help the poor -- there are few in the middle class. The poor believe that the rich have taken what is rightfully theirs and the high school students jokingly aspire to be Robin Hood-like "international thieves."
Speaking of thieves, violent crime is prevalent. While this is most certainly fueled by need, more than one of my students have had a parent killed by robbers, or known someone who has been kidnapped for ransom etc. I used to be worried by the gruesome creative compositions they would write, but have come to learn some of them are their reality. If people catch a thief, the police come to save the thief from being burned alive, rather than just to arrest the person. I definitely don't want to make it sound like everywhere someone is trying to cheat you, but perhaps just to point out that everywhere in the world there are criminals.
So, my current conclusion is that colonialism did do harm to the social and economic systems in place in Kenya, and has also left a major British influence in the judicial and educational system. While some of this is good, for example equal education for boys and girls, the effects of the horrible murders against those who opposed colonization and other events that took place still linger. However, before Africa was "discovered" by the West, there were still problems. In literature courses you learn that people are the same everywhere and it is true --in both their assets and faults. Yet, the joy I see the people find in life is something I've found unique to Africa and am blessed to experience their happiness regardless of external circumstances.

Computing by Candlelight

I think I've mentioned that the intersection between modern and the, well, not so modern. For example, it's not uncommon, even in Nairobi, to see someone in traditional dress talking on a fancy cell phone.
During the rainy season it is really hard to predict when there the electricity will be turned off. Apparantly the substations aren't "waterproof" or something, so the power gets turned off, or something just goes wrong. Anyway, it's dark by around 7, so as I write this I have a candle lit to see but am using my laptop battery so that's how the computer is working. It just seems really funny to me to be using candlelight to type!
Just a couple other things that struck me as an interesting mix of contemporary and conventional: in the airport bathrooms, three of the stalls are "normal" toilets, while the fourth is a "squat one." (It "flushes," but you don't sit on anything). Last time I was there, there was a line for the bathroom, but I was able to go right to the front because the tourists making up the line didn't want to use the "squatter." I figured I've been in Kenya long enough to be used to interesting bathrooms...
In the staffroom at the school during lunch (so all the teachers were there, eating and doing normal teacher things, schools are somehow similar to the ones in the US), when a man walks in selling bedsheets! The other teachers did not seem phased by this at all, and some even examined the sheets. They thought it was funny I was so shocked by this.
The mission compound has watchmen for safety, and a Sister told me the ones at night keep bows and arrows rather than guns.
I'm sure there are so many other connections I'm missing, but hopefully this gives a bit of an idea of the mix of current and customary.

A Brief Holiday

Since the children don't have school in December, after Christmas I was able to take a short holiday with my friend Serena who I met on the airplane coming here. We went up to Lake Nakuru and Lake Naivasha to be tourists.
Serena is a "black American," a concept people here are fascinated with! Since everyone thinks she is Kenyan, however, this can definitely work to our advantage in terms of pricing! For example, we went to the market because I needed to get something for a host family I was staying with, so she pretended to be my "Kenyan friend" and give me advice as to what things should cost, but quietly because generally speaking if she talks it gives away the fact her knowledge of Swahili is limited! It was quite funny walking down the street and everyone coming up to me trying to sell things (one man said "Hello. My name is Mr. Cheap - o") and basically leaving her alone. When I would even just say "hapana" [no] the vendors would be so shocked. One even echoed it back to his friends, as in disbelief I had just said that. But, if I wouldn't buy something from them they would then make fun of the way I attempted to speak Kiswahili, as if that would make me then buy their product!
We went to Lake Nakuru National Park for a morning to look for animals. Our driver-guide spotted a leopard, which is funny because I thought they came that way! Seriously though, there are thousands of flamingoes in the lake which was neat to see. We also saw rhinos, giraffes, zebras etc. It was definitely cool! Fun fact: Baby zebras have brown stripes. They are not to be mistaken for "mzungu zebras" which stay brown.
We also visited Hyrax Hill, a prehistoric site initially developed by Richard and Mary Leakey, and the Menengai crater. Both very beautiful! I have put some photos on facebook if you would like to see them.
The next night was New Years Eve, and Serena and I decided to stay in an actual hotel. We were so excited to have toilet seats and mosquito nets without giant holes! The hotel had a nice celebration with live music. At midnight, the tradition is to burst balloons and cut a cake. It was fun to experience that and also be completely amazed at how well the people here dance. They were trying to teach us, but...
We then headed to Lake Naivasha where all the flamingoes used to be, but due to water fluctuations the lake has either been too salty or alkaline for them. We went on a boat ride across the lake to a game sanctuary where you could walk around amidst the giraffes and zebra, and on the way back we stopped to see the hippos in the water. There were also people poaching fish. They were standing in the water (brave!) I think each holding a part of a large net. The legal fisherman use boats, so that is how the guide knew the difference.
In the evening we had a bottle that needed opening, and no bottle opener. Previously Serena was very creative and somehow used to windowsill to open them. With only wooden windows this time, I ventured out to the nearest campfire I could see to ask the people there. I was taught how to use a car door to open the bottle. They were very friendly and I chatted with themfor quite some time -- people from Nairobi who come out to get away from the city for a bit. For some it was their first time camping.
The next day, Saturday, Serena and I took the matatu (mini bus) back to Nairobi. We were coming a day earlier than initially planned, but this was quite fortunate as we discovered upon return that the matatus were going on strike Monday. Sunday the prices were ridiculously high as many people were travelling back for work and school. I was lucky enough to get a ride with one of the sisters back to Makuyu. She pointed out to me that lining the roads were people who just looked like anybody out, but were really the drivers and conductors of the matatus looking for anyone who would be trying to pick up passengers. In the newspaper that week there was an article abotu how hearses were serving as public transportation, but you had to pay double to sit where the coffins usually go! There was also a picture of a burned matatu that was trying to run during the strike, and some drivers/conductors posing as passengers boarded and beat up the other passengers and then burned the vehicle. Eek!
On a lighter note, it was wonderful to have some "time away" to rest a bit and see new things. I'm so lucky I met Serena on the plane coming! We both had a nice time using our new "alien cards" for discounted rates and exploring Kenya for a couple days.

Entitlement

What do people deserve? Not so much what are the basic needs (physical, emotional, intellectual, spiritual), but what do you DESERVE? One of the things that has taken me the most adjusting is getting used to how people ask, and a sense of entitlement they seem to have.
Please and thank you are not words frequently used in most people's vocabularies, partly I believe because in Kiswahili and the tribal languages here "please" is used only in the most formal situations.
Still, it is really off-putting when the school children (or the sho-shos [grandmothers] come up to you and say "give me sweet." When you say "no" they question "why." These statements are not phrased as questions, but as demands. I have even had children literally tell me to give them the clothes I am wearing! White people are associated with pockets full of money, and I think they are used to the ones they see handing out candy etc. I purposely do not carry things like that with me for the sole purpose of trying to break that association.
Appreciation is something usually only shown in business deals (if you buy from someone they will say "thank you thank you thank you about a million times), and a lot of times it feels that when you do something nice for someone they "expect" it.
I taught an English lesson to the aspirants and postulants on manners, and came at it from the angle of "English is a different language than the others here, in English it sounds really harsh if you don't use please/pleasant tone of voice/etc. During class the students looked bored, but afterward I was surprised how many came and said it was a beautiful lesson -- they must also notice!
I know I cannot force people to be appreciative of others, but the primary school children are catching on to saying "thank you" when they are served in the lunch line. Mostly this is just an observation I have made that is one of the main places my culture clashes with the one here.